Can I steel wool these doors, gel stain them and then use the Epifanes spar varnish on them? Many thanks. You said the door doesn’t have a finish on it yet. I live in a very wet environment. I don’t know about “best” but it certainly would be a good option for most situations. This is very apparent when we extend the table and take out the extender leaves which still have the original color. It was sanded, stained and finished with Marine Spar Varnish. Views. Should we coat the entire table or just the top and sides (currently the bottom is left uncoated to allow the smell of cedar) It is not realistic for me to move the bar in when it rains, so far much rain. The abrasion method is quite nice because it also smooths the surface beautifully. But in all seriousness I like to do good work and I’m trying to make it look nice. But I think that’s more related to the fact that the material is more flexible. My dilemma with choosing a finish is being caught between two conflicting interests. A trip to my local West Marine shows that theirs is $35 a quart. Also is this your most recommended combo for both wood and painted outdoor chairs, tables, plantstands, etc? It is called Max CLR HP and has a nice solids content. You might look into using an exterior staining product. As for the acronym, that would be an MSDS. So if the wood absorbs moisture, the finish will expand and contract with the wood and won’t crack. But if cost isn’t an issue, I think its a great option. View on Vehicle $8.99. Your email address will not be published. I am looking for a good finish for some cherry coasters, which will obviously get wet from time to time. Sorry for not replying. Beth, I have several projects I’d like to keep outside. Before applying, make sure to use a latex-based primer. I’m glad google had it in the top 5 line items!!!! We are building a Water Wheel – would you recommend Epifanes for a pond with fish. Could you please advise. Sounds like a good idea to me. I am in the process of building a folding table that will be subjected to moisture with great frequency. Any suggestions beyond the sage advice you have already posted? Our painter has suggested Helmsman Spar- what do you think of this product? This is why you have to be diligent in the painting process and do your research if you’re going to do it yourself. Oil-based products, including spar varnish, have an amber color to them. Any suggestions would be appreciated. BOYSEN 304 MASONRY SURF.CONDITIONER-16L ... BOYSEN 304 MASONRY SURF.CONDITIONER-16L. But after reading your article isn’t marine varnish already made with linseed and mineral spirits, should I dilute it again??? DESCRIPTION: BOYSEN ® Oil Wood Stain is available in various shades to bring out a clear and natural tone in wood. I’d appreciate any advice! Can I merely add a small quantity of, say, MinWax oil stain? I treated the rest of the wood trim in the house with coats of amber and clear shellac. Latex paints are best used on walls and ceilings. Sealed it with Minwax natural sealer and poured an epoxy on it. I used a recommended varathane I think it was called and after a year the plants my wife put on the sill have left a bit of a mark. I stopped watching a long time ago because I had seen all the episodes so I totally understand. But the information is there. I looked up “Epifanes” on the net and found out it’s a manufacturer’s name that makes several coating products. I would think that after you apply it is going to smooth out regardless. So without a doubt, I would recommend a full-strength polyurethane. If sandpaper gums up, allow more dry time. I find it a little difficult to control and i don’t think it looks all that good. I have also read about another spar varnish called Penofin…any advice will be much appreciated! Sadly today you can’t buy real oil based varnish anymore and I don’t think I should use a Poly. Again, a pro could probably give you much better advice on this. How does spar varnish rate in that application? Any advice you can give will be much appreciated. Also, that Polyurethane was a much more recent discovery. When choosing paints for wooden surfaces, you have to consider the place where you’re going to apply it and the final look that you’re going for. Thankyou for your website. Here are my questions: 1. unfortunately, I think you are going to have to wait quite a while for that. Manufacturers will typically just a few drops of the inhibitors to a vat of finish. Hello – I know folks who varnish their boats do it every couple of years. You would think the grout sealer companies would have something decent on the market. I can see shiny streaks in the wood in the darkest parts of the figuring. It seems that the only oil based non-poly is Man-O-War Spar varnish. Certainly not when someone’s fish are at stake. I have a new unfinished European Birch butcher block countertop. I’m working on building a small deck for a whitewater raft and im wondering if using epoxy is necessary or maybe overkill. I need something matte that will not change the color. I’m building a plywood boat. I like Danish Oil for workbenches. I want to stain it darker, so I’m going to have to strip the existing varnish off. Thank you. The surface will dry out from time to time and you can just easily apply more mineral oil. boysen 600 white 16l quick drying enamel. any advice? Marc, View Product; Hudson PU Topcoat 1 Liter . We are new to being home owning and therefore DIY. Even the epoxy might deteriorate over time but it should last quite a while. I am not all that experienced in that area so my frame of reference is a bit off. (The table color looks dead, while the leaves are alive.) Thanks for your help! Any advice would be mush appreciated. If she were prepping food on the surface, I would have given different advice. What I need to know it what would be the best exterior varnish to make the sign last for a few years to come. Historical work had put waterproof wall materials on what are old tongue and groove walls. The best thing to do in my opinion would be a full strip and sanding. 2) I am realizing I probably am not the type of person to keep up with the maintenance I’m reading that is required with teak furniture. It will build much faster that way. We treated it with 3 coatings of Helmsman Varnish. Based on what I’ve read on this site and others, I’m thinking that I should apply a few coats of spar vanish to finish the table. The coating is pretty worn down. So you might want to do a little research into “rubbing out a finish” just so you know your options. I have built stairs and seating benches out of redwood for my outside deck. Thanks! Principal uses: Enhances wood grain of furniture, fixtures, cabinets, doors, doorjambs and panels. It was the beginning of the end for me when I saw one of them clamp a router upside down in a vise and use it like a table mounted router. You can choose various finishes and colors for Boysen … General Finishes Exterior 450 is certainly one option: http://www.rockler.com/product.....;sid=AFN86. By modifying the types and amounts of these components, we can create a whole range of mixtures that vary in price and are specifically suited for either indoor or outdoor use. If it were my grandchild, I’d probably go with something well-known to be absolutely safe such as a polymerized oil like Tried & True. Now truthfully, Arm-R-Seal has never let me down and I have never thought, “Boy I could sure use more solids!” But if I were making a bar top or some sort of surface that I know was going to take a beating, something like Behlens certainly might be worth trying. . That’s a good way to keep a fairly natural look without compromising completely on protection. and do i need to sand the entire threshold down to bare wood or just rough it up where the finish is not holding up…. Thanks in advance! welcome your thoughts… indefinitely. I doubt if the $12 brush is actual badger hair. 1.5 mils/coat 1) I have become concerned about food/wine stains ruining the table. Hey I was wondering what your favourite varnish brand is? It’s still is pretty but I really wanted that Dusty antique look. All the “spar” products I’ve seen out there have a amber color to it that will make the wood darker and/or give a “wet” look. That is all I used and it looked great! Is using a high quality spar varnish on this floor the worst idea ever? PS: photos can be seen here: Much like the situation with oils, the better product is also the most expensive. Product #048-9829-4. Boysen Spar Varnish no.58. I do think it will do the trick. which I think is an oil, not a varnish, and might require stripping all the old finish off. I finish furniture, and flooring is a different beast. Then, I put three thin coats of Helmsman Spar Varnish on it to protect it from the extreme weather conditions and sunlight. I’m about to refinish a late 18th century mahogany table with single board sections; it is very dense and heavy mahogany. Do you know of any coating, perhaps a marine deck varnish, that would address both of these needs? PRACTICAL COVERAGE: 25-30 square meters / gallon We have an outdoor bar on our covered pier on a freshwater lake in Louisiana. The marine varnish I recommend is the one I mentioned in this article. I did a chainsaw carving and just put on a poly which didn’t do much, I watched a chainsaw carver on tv recommend a finish of 1/3 linseed, 1/3 mineral spirits, and 1/3 heavy duty marine varnish. Generally-speaking, my preferred outdoor varnish would be a long-oil varnish made with tung oil and at least some phenolic resins and UV inhibitors. All the other DIY shows make me feel like I’m a “Master Carpenter”. I want to avoid the yellowing and amber hues that seem to come with some oil varnishes. Here’s an article that might help you further. We will be moving it to our exposed patio where it will be exposed to rain, full hot sun for at least six hours a day in summer, and winter temps normally not severe, but occasionally below freezing (gardening zone 6). p 505.50. views . I do see that Epifanes carries a matte but notes it has yellowing in it, is it as drastic as an amber shellac? Now if for some reason there is already poly on the door, the oil/varnish blend might not be the best option, because the wood is already sealed. You really have to go with water-based formulas. And I don’t know about “best” but I do think Epifanes would be a good choice for this application. It is made of clear redwood and I’ve been looking through a vast number of your very helpful tutorial videos for general finishing advice. Someone recommended spar varnish. My question is about coating my bay window sill. Shudder…. Armor Coat Spar Varnish (3) 3.7 out of 5 stars. Unfortunately, I don’t. Well, major bummer. Bridget. Getting Ready to put a Walk in shower All Ceder would like to Waterproof do You have and Hints. I have a 1960 Thompson boat I am getting close to varnishing. Can you recommend a good marine varnish? The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard. Hi, I have 22 exterior doors that bake in the Arizona sun. So you’ll have to move around a bit and selective sand certain areas to keep things even. Hey Larry. It is a beer pong table. I decided to go with some Watco Danish Oil in Black Walnut and have put a couple of coats on thus far. Hello, I have a walnut slab that I’d like to use as an outdoor tabletop. My favorite way to do it is using Festool’s Platin abrasive pads lubricated with some mineral spirits. I honestly don’t use the stuff myself so can’t recommend anything too specific. All content on The Wood Whisperer is copyrighted, and may not be reprinted in full form without my written consent. I even put the plastic spill catcher under them, but I think there must have been some spillage that went unnoticed. Hi there Marc. Views. Do you recommend going all the way with the total of 7-9 total coats? I am building a solid bodied guitar. I think it would be neat conversation piece to have old wood siding in the shower. I really don’t know. The more I read about my project the more confused I become! Resins – Alkyd, Phenolic, or Polyurethane Richard. Once that happens, the oil in your oil/varnish mix tends to stay tacky forever. If you want to apply wax, you certainly can but it really doesn’t offer much in the way of protection. In addition to pigments, one additive I have seen used in clear finishes is Ethyl-vinyl acetate. I would like to seal it with something that will not alter the color if possible. The finish lasted 4 years. Thanks. What are the best processes and materials for this application? do you recommend using a marine varnish to weather proof and protect the hardwood plywood that the side walls are made from? I just think that he didn’t want to continue with the show and moved on to different things. You can play it safe and use de-waxed shellac under the marine varnish. And can the wood surface then be restained? What is your suggestion on what I should use? But there is humidity. This will be exposed to harsh winter weather, hard winds and heat (being mounted on a metal-sided building). Also a lovely soft finish. I’m taking my dining room, walnut, Spanish style table and poplar chairs outside onto a concrete patio in Los Angeles California. Bob. This site uses affiliate links. Should I ever be compensated to write, I will make full disclosure. Maybe not yearly, but certainly with some regularity. Now 15 years later the stain in the wood seems to be fading. Varnishers happen to be the most skilled applicators in the field. That would be cured finish. I keep hearing a lot about ‘the paint manufacturers put UV blocker or inhibitors’ In their formulations. I’m refinishing a park bench and want to use it on the oak slats. If you don’t mind a thick shiny finish, then I would follow the directions on the can for the most durable surface possible. Boysen® Spar Varnish #58 is a clear, alkyd-type, glossy varnish that dries to a hard durable film without obliterating the natural appearance of wood. My problem: I refinished my Victorian interior woodwork with several coats of Ben Moore oil based sanding sealer. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely our own. I bought 3/4 inch marine-grade plyboard that won’t bend or peel or decompose over time. 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